Key facts: Burst Pipes in Historic Downtown
- The city's walking tour lists downtown-area homes such as 398 South Broad Street (1889) and 132 North Potter Street (1899).[1]
- Galvanized steel supply pipe corrodes from the inside, and it may reduce pressure before it leaks.
- EPA's RRP rule covers paid work disturbing lead paint in most pre-1978 homes, which can include opening walls for a pipe repair.[2]
The system
Why old plumbing systems fail differently
An old building's plumbing has often been repaired in stages. You might find galvanized steel in one wall, copper in another and plastic in a recent bathroom, with various adapters joining them. Those joints are often where trouble starts. Mixed metals can corrode where they meet, and a repair at one point puts stress on the old pipe next to it.
Galvanized steel usually fails slowly and then all at once. Rust builds up inside, pressure falls and the water may run brown. Eventually a joint gives up. So a failure can be read as a warning about the rest of the line, not just that one spot. It's worth asking the plumber how far the same pipe continues.
First steps
First steps when a line fails in an older building
- 1
Find the shutoff, gently
Old gate valves can break or fail to close fully. If it won't close, go to the meter valve.
- 2
Check for electricity
Old wiring and water are a bad mix, so stay clear of wet fixtures.
- 3
Don't pull at the pipe
Old lines can snap at the threads next to the break.
- 4
Catch what you can
Buckets and towels are useful, but stay safe.
- 5
Protect what's old
Lift rugs, pictures and small items away from the water.
- 6
Call a plumber familiar with older systems
Mention the pipe type and the age of the building.
Pipe types
What you may find in an old building's walls
| Item | Sign of trouble | What to ask |
|---|---|---|
| Galvanized supply | Brown water, low pressure, rust | How much of it remains? |
| Copper repair sections | Green crust at joints | Are the old-to-new connections sound? |
| Cast iron drain | Stains, smell, cracks | Can it be inspected by camera? |
| Gate valves | Stuck or won't fully close | Should it be replaced with a ball valve? |
| Old lead or lead-solder | Age and appearance | Should the water be tested? |
Getting to the pipe
Plaster, lath and access
Cutting into plaster is not the same as cutting drywall. Vibration can loosen plaster well beyond the cut, and it's hard to patch invisibly. Ask if you can reach the pipe from a closet, a cabinet back or from below. Sometimes rerouting a new line along another path means leaving a good wall alone, and that may suit an old building well.
If the wall must be opened, keep the cut tidy and record where it is. A plaster repairer can often patch it in a way that fits the rest of the wall. Don't let anyone assume that the wall just goes back with new board, unless that's what you decide.
- Try other access routes first
- Keep cuts tidy
- Consider a reroute
- Bring in a plaster repairer
Cold weather
Freeze risk in a building without modern insulation
Older buildings often have less insulation than new houses, and a line may run through an unheated wall or the space under a raised floor. The February 2021 freeze took DFW to minus 2 degrees.[3] Before a forecast freeze, protect anything under the floor or in an outer wall, disconnect hoses and let faucets drip, as Triple-I suggests.[4]
If the building is empty for a while, as a storefront may be over a holiday, turning off the water and draining what can be drained is a sensible precaution. Make sure you know how the building's heating and any fire protection rely on water before you do it.
Decisions
Repair the section or replace the whole run?
A plumber may recommend replacing more than the failed section. In a building with galvanized pipe, that's often reasonable advice, because old pipe next to a repair may fail next. But do ask to see what they found. Good evidence includes a cut section showing the rusted inside of the pipe, photographs and a clear explanation of what remains.
Plumbers working in Cedar Hill must be state-licensed and registered with the city, and larger jobs may need permits, so raise that early.[5] If the building has local or national recognition, ask the city what that means for the work.
Drying
Drying after a pipe failure in an old building
- Pull liquid water firstThen deal with the materials.
- Check under raised floorsWater often runs through to the void below.
- Dry plaster and old wood gentlyFast drying can crack them.
- Save the trimNumber each piece, and store it flat.
- Keep recordsReadings help you and your insurer later.
Further reading
Where to read more about downtown buildings
For how the drying side works in buildings like these, see extraction and drying downtown. The main burst pipe page covers the general sequence, and the Historic Downtown page deals with materials and history. Keep a clear timeline for your insurer, whatever the age of the building.
Empty buildings
If the building is rented or stands empty
An empty building is at the greatest risk, because a failed line can run for days. Close the main if nobody is around, or have someone check on it regularly. Owners and tenants should agree in writing who holds the keys and who gets the call.
Questions
Downtown burst pipe questions
Why is the water from my old pipes brown?
Galvanized pipes rust from the inside, and that rust can discolor the water, particularly after the water has been off. If only your building is affected, a plumber can check. If neighbors see it too, contact the Water and Sewer Division.
My old valve won't close. What should I do?
Don't force it, since old valves can break. Use the next valve upstream, such as the one at the meter, and call a plumber to replace the old valve when the leak is dealt with.
Should an old building be fully repiped after one burst?
Not automatically. It depends on how much old pipe remains and what state it's in. Ask to see the failed section, and get an opinion on the rest. Doing it in stages may be possible, depending on the access.
Will a pipe repair damage my plaster walls?
It can if the wall is opened carelessly. Ask whether the pipe can be reached from a closet or from below, or if a reroute would avoid the wall. If the wall must be opened, plan for a plaster repair.
